Thessaloniki has been through a lot – and not just because of the pandemic and associated lockdown (a particularly unnatural state of affairs for a city so famed for its social life). Since its founding in antiquity, Thessaloniki has always been a bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis located on a civilizational fault-line. It has seen conquerors come and go, empires rise and fall; it is a perpetual meeting point for East and West, a fact written into the city's very fabric (and food!). It has thrived, it has met with disaster, and it has risen again. So even as we impatiently yearn to stroll its waterfront and its charming streets again, to savor amazing delicacies at its superb establishments and to generally bask in its convivial atmosphere, it's very nature urges patience. All crises pass, the city might reassure us, and there is much to look forward to.

The issue Greece Is Thessaloniki 2020-21 – our sixth dedicated to this wonderful metropolis – will both immerse you in the city from afar, and prepare you for your next real-life trip in the not-too-distant future. Over its 140 pages we explore the latest developments, the exciting new hotels, the ambitious plan to revamp the legendary Modiano Market, insider tips, key sites and monuments, and nearby destinations for nature outings such as the birdwatcher's paradise that is the Axios River Delta. And because a city is much more than just a collection of places, you'll also read about Thessaloniki's rich heritage (including local Sephardic recipes), its contemporary culture and amazing products (superb innovative wines, fashion and design items), and, of course, the colorful, creative characters who make this city everything that it is.