As the pandemic lingers, new, safe initiatives are keeping the city of Athens as alive as ever. Some ideas, like those for new restaurants and shops, were allowed to brew a bit longer than usual during the country’s two lockdowns, resulting in an array of excellent new places to dine, shop, and hang out. Cultural events, which were put on hold, are now plentiful as well. Meanwhile another initiative, the campaign for the return of the Parthenon Marbles from the British Museum, has had a century-long buildup, and is currently receiving the world’s attention as it appears to have reached an irreversible momentum.

In this, our latest issue dedicated to the Greek capital, we share a look at the Athens of right now; a city that’s still held back by Covid-19 restrictions, but gleaming with creativity and ambition, and humming with anticipation for the return to the lively urban pace that suits it so well.

Over 159 pages, we give our best tips for the hottest places to be; present our cultural agenda for the end of 2021 through 2022; guide you to the Neos Kosmos neighborhood and to Ardittos Hill; discuss life in Athens with US Ambassador to Greece, Geoffrey Pyatt; go on a hunt for the city’s best souvlaki; and take a special look at a subject that’s currently on everyone’s mind: the Parthenon Marbles. This, and much more.